Historic Nolensville

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For me, Nashville is the perfect balance of big (enough) city, and of small town USA. We have our notable skyline with its impressive skyscrapers and then we have rolling hills, with their equally impressive landscapes, just on the outskirts of the metropolis. Depending on how your mood strikes, you can take in the bustling sights and sounds of Broadway, or you can retreat to one of the quainter and quieter sides of Music City. Among my favorites are Leiper’s Fork, downtown Franklin, Bell Buckle and Nolensville.

Nolensville has more recently become a hot spot for the real estate market, but for those of us happily settled in homes within the city limits, it makes a for a perfect weekend morning day trip. I’ve driven through Nolensville before, since it’s the most scenic (though maybe not the most direct) route to Arrington Vineyards. But on a warm September day last fall, I made Nolensville the final stop destination. Although I had previously discovered the amazing tastes for sale at The Amish Feed Mill (a container of their cranberry chicken salad with a bag of their freshly baked dinner rolls is a perfect to-go picnic to take to Arrington), on that day I met a friend there for the Saturday morning breakfast (served every Saturday from 8-10:30am) and just enjoyed good conversation in the ambiance of the old country market. In a world where shiny and new is often the assumed preference, I love the beauty that is evident in the rustic wood floors and mismatched dining tables and chairs. And although I confess I’m partial to a tried and true biscuit recipe we’ve made in our family for years, I still loved their biscuits with homemade jam, sausage and gravy, thick-cut bacon and scrambled eggs (yes, I ate it all :)). If that standard fare for breakfast were good for you, I would eat it every morning of my life. So when I’m at places like The Feed Mill (or Loveless Café), I set aside my typical health conscious choices and just eat like a true Southerner.

After eating more than I should have, we headed over to the Nolensville Farmer’s Market. I regretted being so full once I watched my friend pick out a box of pastries for her family from the The Bekahry tent. Hearing the baker share about making the oversized cinnamon rolls (with generous coverings of icing), the muffins, donuts and her chorizo, egg & hot pepper Jack Cheese Kolaches, will likely get me to drive back down south one Saturday morning on an empty stomach. After we made some healthier purchases from produce vendors of nearby farms, I headed over to explore my friend’s recommendations for some of the little gift shops set up in restored homes along the main street. The Tanner House, Shabby Lane and The Painted Dragonfly (all within walking distance of each other) each tempted me with adorable home décor, word art, boutique clothing and just delightfully different gift ideas.

I’m sure the locals and newly-established home owners in Nolensville could share other highlights and options of things to see and do there, but part of the fun is to know just enough to go and then discover more. 🙂

The Grand Ole Opry House

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The Grand Ole Opry House—for years it really wasn’t even on my radar; I considered it a must see for tourists and a “maybe one day…” for locals. When I finally went there on a date for the first time a couple years ago, I was honestly astonished at how much I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of the musical broadcast. I knew I loved country and bluegrass music, so maybe I shouldn’t have been so surprised, but the entertainment of the radio production side, the genuine joy of each performer, and maybe the enthusiasm of the largely out-of-towners audience, made for nothing short of a delightful evening.

Concerts are, in their simplest form, a performance. But the Opry has a way of elevating the performances and the air time transmission to its radio listeners into a celebration of the power of music to lift both soul and spirit to the joyful place I believe God intended His gift of music to do. My roots in loving country music started back in my earliest years listening to Elvis and Patsy Cline in my grandmother’s farmhouse, and seeing her contented smile and the twinkle in her eye as she hummed along with her favorite songs. (A while back I asked my five year-old nephew if he liked country music, and he promptly and matter-of-factly replied, “no, I like city music” : )) Obviously an appreciation of Nashville’s best known genre of music is a likely prerequisite to a fully enjoyable experience at the Opry, but I can’t help but wonder if even the self-proclaimed prefer-ers of “city music,” couldn’t help but find themselves smiling and tapping their toes to the rhythmic timing throughout the radiocast.

I recently took the backstage tour of the beautiful Grand Ole Opry House building; it was originally constructed in 1974 to give a permanent home to the show that had been growing increasingly famous at the Ryman Auditorium since 1943 (although the Opry’s inception as a barn dance program goes all the way back to 1925). There is a circle of wood taken from the Ryman that is now on the Opry House stage as the place of honor to stand and share your voice and song. Even after the building suffered extensive damage under 4 feet of water in the flood of 2010, the wood circle was restored and replaced to its original spot in center stage—although not visible to the audience, it symbolizes a revered place in the spotlight for each guest or newly-inducted artist who has been invited to officially join as an Opry House member.

The tour, the stories, the framed photos of singers of years gone by… they all serve to grow your appreciation for the roots of music that is “down to earth” (to quote George D. Hay who founded the original Opry radio program). All the artists are people just like you and me; but they were given a talent and an opportunity to share their musical gift with the world–and I for one, am a truly grateful and happy recipient. 🙂

The Ryman

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The Ryman Auditorium. For those who love the old majestic building, and who feel a sense of familiarity towards it, it’s simply referred to as The Ryman.
Over the years, I’ve been to countless concerts in that historical venue, and the overwhelming takeaway is the deep sense of gratitude and humility that even the most accomplished and famous of artists express about being able to perform there. I’ve been told that musicians prefer the acoustics there to any other musical stage Nashville offers. And I have definitely experienced firsthand the heightened, almost magical experience that is felt with the notes and strums and rhythm taking on a life of their own as they reverberate off the aged walls and stained glass windows.

Finished in 1892, it was originally The Union Gospel Tabernacle—built by newly converted Thomas Ryman to provide a permanent structure for tent evangelist, Sam Jones, to preach to the city of Nashville. Since its beginnings, it has hosted varying types of shows and events, but is most widely recognized for being home to the Grand Ole Opry in the mid 1900’s. Referencing its original purpose and also its most commonly known history, it is now often endearingly called “The Mother Church of Country Music”.  Although the Opry now has its permanent home by Opry Mills, it still returns to its roots at the Ryman every year for the months of November through January. It’s quite honestly a boot-stomping good time regardless of the line-up of Country or Bluegrass artists for any particular night. I made it out recently on a cold night for Opry at the Ryman; I got so caught up in the grandeur of the place that particular night, that I was an easy sell for the advertised post-show tour of the Ryman. I hadn’t previously realized the detailed history of that beloved building—it stood unused, in need of repair, and in threat of being torn down for many years, and was only fully restored to its original glory in the 1990s. The tour takes you behind the scenes through the green rooms and then out onto the stage—anyone with a love for music can’t help but briefly indulge your whimsical side and imagine yourself as the one up there with the microphone :).

I bought a new Hatch print for my home that night in the gift shop—it proudly displays the beautiful architecture of the Ryman with the words “Soul of Nashville”. One could argue that title I suppose, but if walls could sing what they’ve heard over more than a century, I can’t imagine there would be anywhere else in our hometown that would be better suited to be called just that.

Franklin

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As much as I love to travel and see new places, I love to come home. Maybe I globe trotted enough in my younger years to adequately scratch that itch. Or maybe it’s that I’ve been a homeowner now for a couple years and my roots have grown deeper since I left the world of rentals. But I still appreciate the benefit of getting away—a change of pace and scenery that provides a break from the norm and a refreshing element of different. But, as aforementioned, I love to come home. So I think I value the closer-to-home weekend getaways (e.g. a cabin in the Smokies for a weekend), and the drivable day trip options.

For me, downtown Franklin has always felt like the perfect day away. Just a hop and a skip down 65 (or a more scenic view down Franklin Rd), and the world suddenly feels smaller and quainter. Even though it has recently added some more nationally known retail stores and restaurant chains (I truly hated to see H.R.H. Dumplings leave Main St!), the majority of the shops and eateries have original charm and are authentically one of a kind. I would have to describe Meridee’s as nothing short of adorable, and just cozy—a celebration of the finest version of all things carbs :). Next door is Puckett’s—a delightful place to hear live music while enjoying the best of burgers. 55 South has an amazing hot chicken sandwich that was featured on The Food Network. But I’m definitely not opposed to all things chain—there is a Starbucks and a Sweet Cece’s at 5 Points that will give you the caffeine kick or the hot summer day cool-off you need to continue a full day of fun.

And if you don’t happen to arrive there hungry, just shop for a while in the antique stores, boutiques (my personal favorite is Philanthropy—10% of all their proceeds are donated to missions), home décor, gift and art shops, and you will quickly work up a healthy appetite. I purchased a large word art print with a George McDonald quote on it from The Shop Around the Corner. I would like to think it’s an original, yet I imagine there are others out there—but surely not many others?? Although the shops won’t satisfy the bargain hunting side of me, they do provide the possibility of finding unique treasures that help me justify the slight jump in prices that factor into the charisma of the Franklin experience. (And you’re also supporting small businesses :))

And then there’s the recently restored Franklin Theater. They continue to have an old-fashioned marquee sign and show movies (you can still see It’s a Wonderful Life on a big screen) and are now also a live music venue (one I haven’t yet made it to, but plan to!). I did make it out this year to A Dickens of a Christmas—another, “I’ll get there someday”, that I finally made happen. It was a delightful afternoon of local artisans, musicians, food trucks and merriment. I love the big city feel of Nashville, but there will always be a part of my soul that craves smaller, quieter, simpler… So for that, I am grateful that Franklin is just a few short miles south of me.

The Fontanel

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Most people in Nashville have heard of The Fontanel by now, but the majority of people I know still haven’t experienced all it has to offer. My first time out to Whites Creek Pike was to a Needtobreathe concert at The Carl Black Chevy Woods Amphitheater—a perfect outdoor venue on a clear night to hear one of my favorite bands. (I’m hoping to make it there next year to the Kid Rock annual fish fry). But aside from special events, the grounds hold plenty of options to enjoy a full day without ever having to move your car. The Mansion at Fontanel is the world’s largest log home (33k sq feet), built by Barbara Mandrell’s husband (and where her family lived for several years). The tour guide shares many endearing and inspiring stories of the Mandrell family and of other country artists who have used the home in years since for retreats, writing sessions, etc. They encourage a homey feel and let you sit on the furniture, play the piano, and strum the same guitars played and donated by various famous musicians.

If you purchase your mansion tour through Groupon, a wine tasting is also included with the ticket purchase. Natchez Hills Winery (in Hampshire, Tennessee) has a beautiful tasting room on the grounds. And on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, they host a free concert series, Rhythm & Vine, featuring talented local performers. If weather permits, the concerts are held on the adjacent patio overlooking the beautiful tree-covered hills—truly a perfectly, peaceful way to spend a weekend afternoon! (There is also a distillery on the property where you can sample Tennessee whiskeys and rums). If you’re hungry, Café Fontanella is an Italian restaurant that feels like fine dining, yet in a relaxed, down home sort of way; the café also offers free concerts over weekend brunches and every night over dinner (I highly recommend the Bruschetta appetizer :).

And you’ll have to peek in the Stone House Shoppe—just as the name denotes, it’s an adorable little stone house filled with Tennessee gifts, memorabilia and décor—I haven’t yet managed to walk inside and walk out empty handed. 🙂 There are also wooded trails to hike and zip lines to enjoy if you’re looking for adventures in nature just a few miles outside the city limits. And if you’re ever in need of a retreat close to home, there is a small, but gorgeous 4 star Inn (part of the Southern Living Hotel Collection).

I recently spent an afternoon with my mom on the 100+ acres that make up The Fontanel. The day proved to be the perfect mix of activity and of carefree time to just relax and enjoy each other’s company in this happy place tucked away in a corner of Nashville away from the hustle and bustle.

Radnor

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Radnor Lake—I often refer to it as my outdoor cathedral. There is something both majestic, and equally peaceful about walking the shaded, yet sun-sparkled trails. I’m convinced that my soul needs nourishment as much (if not more?) as my body does. Life seems to be a learning process of figuring out exactly what replenishes your inner being; for me, it is being outside. I appreciate the conveniences of all things indoors (and enjoy camping the most when a shower facility is available), but the wonder I feel at the beauty of nature is unmatched by anything else I love. So when I feel the need to be alone, but also productive (hiking the trails is obviously great exercise!), I drive over to Radnor Lake—the secluded feel of the park will make you marvel at the convenience of getting there.

I confess that you’ll never see me at a gym, but I’m admittedly a bit OCD about getting my daily walk in. Exercise is a joyful experience for me–IF I can exercise outside. It almost feels like cheating to walk the perimeter of the lake and know that it counts as a heart healthy activity. I know there are scientific studies confirming the improved cognitive ability of the brain to think and talk while walking, but I am just as convinced that there is an added benefit of the soul to more freely express itself in the presence of natural beauty. So, Radnor Lake is also my where I go when I want to catch up with a dear friend—in a heart to heart way.

I also genuinely love to drive—distance doesn’t faze me if the destination is desirable. But in this crazy fast world we live in, sometimes we only have a few minutes to get to a physical location that will contribute to our peace of mind. So, if your day’s schedule only allows you a short amount of combined time to drive and exercise, head over towards Granny White Pike with your walking shoes on. Your soul will thank you. 🙂

(side note: Radnor Lake was originally constructed by the Louisville & Nashville (L&N) Railroad in 1914 to be a reservoir to supply water for its steam engines at Radnor Yards.)

Full Moon Pickin’ Party

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Full Moon Pickin’ Party—an absolute Nashville MUST-do! I’ve been twice now and have set a goal to (hopefully) make it every month in 2017 (happens May-Oct). If Bluegrass music makes you smile and tap your feet, if you love being outdoors and can marvel at the splendor of a full moon, if you appreciate the tasty offerings of food trucks and cold beer on a Friday night, then you will LOVE this event as much as I do.

I’ve often said that full moons are the one thing in the world that continue to leave me with the same sense of wonder that I felt as a child at Christmas time. Multiple times I have been driving at night and unexpectedly come upon a full moon and gasped at the beauty of it. If remotely possible, I have been known to pull over, or, if at home (or at the beach!), to just sit and stare at it for a while. It sounds a bit odd to “watch” a seemingly non-moving object, but its brilliant beauty just leaves me awestruck. Although millions of people around the world obviously see its light 12 times every year, I still somehow feel it is a personal reminder to me each month of how much I’m loved by its Creator—I suppose simply because I love it so much. 🙂

So, all that to say, to have a monthly event in my hometown that is scheduled around a full moon with one of my favorite genres of music as the backdrop soundtrack just delights my heart! The Pickin’ Parties are held at the Warner Park Equestrian Center (off Old Hickory Blvd.) and the funds of ticket sales help support the Warner Parks. You can pack a picnic blanket or lawnchairs, bring food of your choosing, or get an excellent burger, biscuit sandwiches, or homemade s’mores (among many other options!) from a circle of food trucks. No outside alcohol is permitted, but your wristband gets you up to four draft beers from a variety of brews (water and soft drinks also included with price of admission). The seating tends to center around the bands on the main “stage” (side of the beautiful barn used for the horses during Steeplechase), but anyone can bring in an acoustic instrument (which lowers the ticket price for you!) and strike up an ensemble with other local musicians. It’s fascinating to me to see varied voices and instruments come together, speak the language of music and create magic. I love watching the joy on musicians’ faces as they give their gift of music to an equally joyful captive audience–you just can’t help but smile while listening to Bluegrass music 🙂

I truly, truly recommend trying out this event when it starts up in a few months! Especially on a clear, warm summer night, it is the perfect, happy ending to a long workweek. It feels grassroots, down home, small town, organically and authentically Nashville—all the ideals we hope to continue to see in our music city.

The Fork

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Leiper’s Fork. For anyone who’s been to this little spot on the map in Williamson County, that name will likely bring a smile to your face, with the simultaneous thought, “we should go again”. I have a friend who refers to it as her “happy place in Nashville”, and I couldn’t agree with her more. If flashy and booming is your style, it might not have the same appeal to you; for although it does draw a good crowd, it’s the simplicity and (very) small town, rustic charm that endear it to locals and tourists alike.

If you google Leiper’s Fork, the description that pops up is: “an unincorporated rural village”. Seeing it officially described as a village made me fall in love with it even more. Life just moves at a slower pace in the restaurants, antique shops and art galleries that sit along both sides of the few hundred feet of 46W that make up The Fork. Even when things are “busy” (e.g. if you have to park out past the Dukes of Hazard car on the edge of town, or if the Puckett’s outdoor seating area is full of Harley riders or groups of cyclists resting after a long spin on the nearby Natchez Trace), all still feels peaceful. Being there also feels a bit like a refreshing suspension of routine reality—like no one carries their daily stresses there with them, but rather just intentionally enjoys the friendly faces, the aromas of Southern cuisine, and the chance to stroll or sit while having an unhurried conversation. I realized I’ve never noticed speed limit signs at the edge of town (even though I’m sure they’re there); so it’s interesting to me that the traffic just automatically comes to a slow crawl as it approaches and drives through—it is pedestrian friendly which slows drivers down, but, as over-sentimental as it may sound, I swear there almost seems to be a sense of paying respect to a preservation of what we need life to be sometimes: uncomplicated, contented and carefree.

On out past Leiper’s Fork about 15 minutes is a small community called Santa Fe where my dad owned several acres with a pond and a dilapidated barn on it all during my growing up years. My dream as a child was to live out in the country, so I incessantly begged my parents to build a house on the land. Even though we never did build on the property, we would often go out there for picnics or to buy sweet treats at the old country store close by (which was next to a little white church and a community center). Those 3 buildings joined by a gravel road, nestled below rolling hills, and set back from a bubbling creek, are to this day my favorite place on earth. So, countless times over the years, on a blue-sky, sunny day, I have gotten up early, stopped for a coffee, rolled down the windows, turned up the music, and made the drive from wherever I’m living in Nashville, down Old Hillsboro Rd, through Leiper’s Fork, and on out towards Santa Fe. Sometimes I’ll sit at the picnic table by the creek and read and soak in the stillness and beauty; or, if time is short, I’ll turn around and head right back home. The joy for me is as much in the journey; the time to think and pray and sing on that length of road through the picturesque countryside delights and renews my soul. So although I’ve driven through Leiper’s Fork more often than I’ve actually stopped there, it is still a big piece of the puzzle of my most cherished stretch of Tennessee geography.

So if you’ve somehow never made it to Leiper’s, I highly recommend a cheeseburger from Puckett’s–I enjoy it best on a Saturday from 12-2pm with live music (and if you have a hearty appetite, start earlier with breakfast across the street at The Country Boy). Try to make it too to a live concert at the Lawnchair Theater (cozy, outdoor venue with white lights strung above the small grass seating area), or to the bustling Chili Cookoff in October. Regardless of what is or isn’t going on when you make it there, I promise you will still experience the essence of what keeps drawing us all back; and then you’ll find yourself wanting to go back too. 🙂

(Literally) Chasing Waterfalls

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My love for Nashville extends beyond its city limits to the surrounding parts of Middle Tennessee. This mid-state region seems to be undisputedly equated with natural beauty. State Park signs appear to be almost as plenteous as the blue, metal food and gas signs at each exit for any interstate leaving Nashville. There is hiking, camping and sightseeing abundantly available for the outdoor lover. Although I have vivid memories as a child on family hikes where I was always bringing up the rear and slowing down my somewhat impatient, faster-paced siblings, I nonetheless learned to love being on trails in nature. I keep a faster pace now, but still intentionally slow myself down enough to take in the grandeur around me.

I was never picky about where I hiked as long as I was outside. But then I visited Burgess Falls last year (in Sparta) and fell in love with waterfalls! Reaching the falls felt equivalent to earning a prize at the end of a strenuous climb (or descent). In the secluded serenity of the cascading water, I almost could have imagined myself being in Hawaii (admittedly maybe only because I’ve never actually been there!), but was still amazed I was only a little over an hour from my front door. Later in the year I went to the falls at Rock Island State Park, and suddenly found myself setting a goal to see all the falls within (reasonable :))  driving distance of home.

So now I have checked Foster, Cummins, Greeter, Ozone, Rutledge, Cane Creek and Fall Creek Falls off the list. Still need to make it to Virgin Falls (and likely another one or two I may not know about yet!). A scenic drive, a picnic lunch, meeting a friend, and you have the makings of a perfect day. (Be prepared with a swimsuit too during warmer months—most have great swimming holes!)

I have occasionally hiked solo, and realized on my last venture out that I love the camaraderie that exists on the rocky trails going to or from the destination. I’ve always felt on my daily walks, (be it in a neighborhood, on a greenway, etc), that if you pass someone who is obviously in the same moment in history, at the same physical location, and participating in the same activity, that there should be a mutual acknowledgement of, and salutation to, the other individual. But that doesn’t seem to be a commonly held belief in the general world of routine exercisers. Yet on a cumbersome incline, with little breath to spare, the overwhelming majority of hikers seem happy to offer a smile, hello, or a word of encouragement to those who are losing stamina, or who need to ask, “are we almost there?” or, “which way is best?”

I always leave a hike marveling at the beauty that God created seemingly just for our sheer enjoyment. But I honestly also leave feeling more benevolence for the human race overall! Crazy as it sounds, when you can greet and encourage, or are greeted and encouraged by, that many strangers in a day, you can’t help but feel like a person who just generally loves people. Maybe it’s the endorphins that naturally flow from exercising, or maybe it’s that the simplest offering of a smile and a kind word, offered and received repeatedly over the varying distances of a loop trail, can leave your weary body with a full heart. 🙂

Michoacanos

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Having grown up in and near Nashville, I remember years back when Nolensville Road felt out of place to me in my otherwise familiar hometown. Or maybe it was more that I felt out of place because there wasn’t anything comfortingly predictable, like a Starbucks, in the midst of the international markets. But now every time I drive down it on my way to or from work, it serves as a reminder to me of how time and experience can completely change your perspective.

I first traveled internationally with my church youth group to Mexico at age 16. I was trying to use my few words of high school Spanish to help guide several lively and giggling little ones to complete their coloring page project. The joy I felt in using even the most elementary level of a different language to communicate with those beautiful children, wakened within me a determination to pursue proficiency in speaking Spanish. That trip was also my first taste of realizing the beauty of different: when a culture different from my own started to feel a little less unfamiliar.

Over the course of the next several years, I traveled on several short-term mission trips back to Mexico, to Honduras, Belize, Turkey, the Ukraine, Romania, Kenya, and India. The longest I stayed anywhere was a year and a half in Peru; and that’s where I finally realized my dream of studying and learning Spanish. With each country visited, with each person I met and quickly learned to love, and with each new flavor I tasted, there began to be less and less that felt foreign to me. My heart expanded significantly past the borders of Nashville, and it began to hold dear the grand design of how each culture uniquely reflects the beautiful creativity of its Grand Designer.

So now, driving down Nolensville Road feels familiar to me. I crave ethnic foods and appreciate that I can easily pick up Indian, Ethiopian, Persian, Korean or Thai carry out on the way home after a busy day at work. I love the convenience of getting authentic tacos from a variety of food trucks, and of occasionally treating myself to freshly fried papusas from a Papuseria (must try these if you haven’t!). I’m grateful I can buy a liter of drinkable yogurt, just like I got in Peru, at K & S World Market. (And I can tell you right where to go if you need a piñata or want a tres leches cake for a birthday party). My weekly staple is a white food truck parked in front of Cricket, just south of Haywood Ln (Michoacanos). My personal favorite and recommendation is their iced coffee—similar to a frapuccino, but it tastes just like the granitas I loved in Honduras. They also have freshly cut fruit combos (with or without chili powder on top), smoothies, rice pudding, and, I’m told, the best flan in Nashville. You can just point to what you want on the menu, and really only need to be prepared to say “gracias” and “delicioso”. 🙂