Bell Buckle

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Cute and cozy have, over time, become the two adjectives that most define my style of preference. From inspiring the decorating motif in my little house, to characterizing the shops that manage to draw me inside and the small towns that keep calling me back for a visit—all my favorites can best be described as cute and cozy. So it probably comes as no surprise that the simplicity and quaint charm of historic downtown Bell Buckle, Tennessee, tempt me to exit every time I’m passing by on 1-24. Set just a few miles off the interstate, through picturesque countryside, (and less than an hour outside of Nashville), Bell Buckle draws in thousands of visitors yearly.

From its antique shops in vintage brick buildings to its popular café with a delightful array of fried and comfort foods, to an ice cream parlor with an old fashioned soda fountain, to the large quilt design painted on the main street, a day in the life of this revived railroad town feels like stepping back into olden days (one of their slogans reads: “We are 100 years behind the times and proud of it!”).  Known increasingly as a center for arts and crafts and even for live music, Bell Buckle is likely best known as the home of the RC-Moon Pie Festival held every June.

Although Moon Pies are made at the Chattanooga Bakery, back in the 1990’s Bell Buckle offered to host a party of sorts to celebrate the 75th birthday of this traditional Southern dessert; and the result was a beloved annual festival honoring the famous pies and RC colas. While the historical union of this soda and sweet-treat duo is somewhat elusive, they have nonetheless been paired together for decades and were formerly referred to as “the working man’s lunch”, back even to the 1930’s (presumably because the combo was an affordable, filling snack at a nickel apiece!).

So whether it be the events of the festivals, the antique shopping, or just a day trip which includes a little bit of reminiscing and the chance to breathe in fresh air beyond the big-city limits, the friendly residents of Bell Buckle will always welcome you with a smile (and likely a Moon Pie :))

The Loveless Cafe

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The Loveless Café has earned its famous reputation as home of Nashville’s best biscuits over the past 60 plus years since Lon and Annie Loveless first purchased the property in the 1950’s and Annie started making and selling her special biscuit recipe (which was thankfully passed on when they eventually sold the business). Although best known for their biscuits and country ham, the café’s extensive menu gives out-of-town and local guests a variety of options to enjoy the full flare of Southern cuisine while satisfying the heartiest of appetites, including sausage and gravy, grits and omelets, fried chicken or catfish, and their popular barbecue smoked on-site over Tennessee hickory wood.

Although the Loveless motel was closed down in 1985, the original, neon-lit sign advertising both the café and motel still stands out front and has become the trademark for this legendary diner. But the old white buildings once used for room and board for tired travelers on the Natchez Trace have now been converted into different shops to be explored either while waiting on your table, or afterwards while walking off a full stomach! Lil’ Biscuits Gift Store and Hams & Jams Country Market round out the tourist experience by offering souvenirs and pre-packaged, portable tastes of the café to enjoy back in the comfort of one’s own home. And a number of painted rocking chairs and corn hole boards are also set up outdoors providing either rest or diversion while waiting your turn to be seated inside. The grounds expanded back in 2009 when they added the Loveless Barn, a beautiful venue for hosting events or live music in an atmosphere offering the distinguished, down-home charm of the South.

And just in case you have a morning at home and a craving for freshly baked biscuits before you get a chance to make it down Highway 100 out to Loveless, I’ll share a family favorite recipe for buttermilk biscuits that has proved faithful over the years!

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2 cups all-purpose flour (chilled)

1 Tbsp. baking powder

2 tsps. sugar

½ tsp. cream of tartar

¼ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. baking soda

½ cup chilled butter (real butter)

1 cup buttermilk

Mix dry ingredients and finely cut in butter (very finely—until mixture resembles a powder). Add buttermilk and toss with a fork until a ball of dough forms. Put on a floured surface and knead very gently until smooth. Pat to about ¾” (the thicker the better!) and place with sides touching on un-greased baking sheet. Bake at 450 for about 12-15 minutes until golden on top and bottom (and not doughy in the middle).

Papa Boudreaux’s Cajun Cafe

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Nashville is growing increasingly more and more popular as a hot spot for new restaurants, great chefs, and unique dining experiences. And not surprisingly, since it seems that no matter how many start-up eateries hang a sign and open their doors, both locals and tourists alike stream in and fill the tables, eager to try the latest twist on menu offerings and to test out the social scene. Although Yelp and other such apps can serve as dependable guides for eating out, the sheer volume of options has led me to mostly rely on word-of-mouth recommendations when planning an evening out.

If you can trust that a bit of a drive past the city limits and navigating a maze of country roads all just lends to a sense of adventure in discovering an exceptionally fun evening, then you might soon find yourself in Santa Fe, Tennessee, enjoying authentic Cajun food and great live music. I suppose the remote location of the little yellow brick building (about an 45-60 minute scenic drive out of Nashville) was part of a plan to keep the crowd size down and the food top-notch for this small, family-owned business. It is best to call ahead as they are only open on weekend evenings (Fri-Sun) and seating capacity tops out at around 25 (and they fill up fast!).

The appetizer of Boudin balls is absolutely worth the drive there. And although I was too full after the main course to have the fresh beignets for dessert, the other guests at our family-style table couldn’t stop raving about them. They offer sweet tea and sodas, but are otherwise a friendly BYOB establishment, so you can carry a little cooler in with you if you’d like. The solo musician squeezed into the corner with his guitar probably caused them to sacrifice seating for 2 additional customers; but the music creates a festive and cozy ambiance that enhances the overall experience for all the contented diners who ventured from near and farther to savor the tastes of New Orleans in the beautiful backwoods of Tennessee.   🙂

Nashville Farmers’ Markets

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The trend is growing and the pressure is on to purchase locally-grown produce. But it’s a positive pressure. Simply strolling through rows of vendors at a farmer’s market with their freshly-harvested fruits, veggies and herbs makes me feel that I’ve already somehow contributed to my physical health, as well as to the cohesiveness of my community. The colors and aromas inspire a creativity in me to try new recipes using only ingredients purchased from the open air market–with no supplementing from a grocery store list! (Haven’t attempted this yet—but it’s a goal. :))

But more than just the option of purchasing healthier, tastier produce, (and a broad array of baked goods, jams, cheeses, etc), I love the atmosphere and the feel of just celebrating the simple joys in life that are experienced at a Farmer’s Market. Each pocket of Nashville has its own—mine is in Hip Donelson on Friday nights. I feel an admiration for the hard work that got the unprocessed, flavorful food from the earth and onto the folding tables set up in Ace Hardware’s parking lot. I also find myself feeling proud of complete strangers who have turned their love of preparing delicious food into a small business. Their talent and dedication to producing their products allows you to sample a variety of cupcakes, freshly roasted coffee, bacon ketchup (SO good!) and honey from music city bees (all set to the backdrop of live musicians performing for your shopping enjoyment :)).

A couple of months I’ve made it out to Night Market! at the downtown Nashville Farmers’ Market (3rd Friday of each month). I absolutely love the combination of all things that make me happy being under one roof! Live music, a variety of ethnic or classic American dinner options, good drinks at The Picnic Tap, shopping (the Batch store always tempts me to buy new Nashville memorabilia), an international market, and Jeni’s ice cream—I personally couldn’t ask for anything else to be there!

The sights and smells and sounds of the full experience of a Farmer’s Market bring all the senses to life. There is an earthy, tangible feel that makes one appreciate both the created gifts we have been given, and the creativeness we were also given to create.

For the Love of Coffee

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Simply put, I love Starbucks. For someone who is averse to most chain restaurants– preferring the small hole in the wall/Mom & Pop eateries–I ironically faithfully frequent the largest megacorp in the world of java. My friends know me well it seems, because gift cards with the lady in green have become guaranteed birthday presents every February. I would have to confess that I’m a self-professed coffee snob, and while some might argue in favor of other brews, Starbucks’ White Chocolate Peppermint Mocha never disappoints. 🙂

But four years ago when I first visited the small town in Sweden where my sister-in-law is from, I discovered the cozy feel of uniquely, individually designed coffee shops. I marveled at the quaintness, the simplicity, and yet the attention to detail in the décor (and at their delicious coffee!). I considered the distinctiveness of each one just part of my delightful European experience, but then found myself wishing for places back in Tennessee that would more closely resemble the originality of the coffee shops I was leaving behind, than the more modern, streamlined feel of the Starbucks I was returning home to.

That’s when I first began to realize that Nashville had a lot more to offer than just several locations of Starbucks (although I can definitely tell you where each one is!)—I had just made my world a little too small by mainly going only there. Although I had previously visited Bongo Java, Fido’s and Frothy Monkey and knew they would always deliver a great cup of coffee, I’ve more recently determined to discover all of our city’s options for a great espresso or cappuccino, each in its own personal setting of charm and character (albeit with more of a Nashville flare than a European one).

So these days, when I need a perfectly brewed cup of caffeine, or need to catch up with a friend, I’m expanding my world past the internationally available to the locally available. I highly recommend the Coffee Glacier at Portland Brew, the Cuban at Crema, an iced coffee at Barista Parlor, a chilled Chai at The Red Bicycle, a Salted Caramel latte at Three Brothers Coffee, the Dirty Chai at Sam & Zoe’s, and an Iced Latte at Flatrock. And if you find yourself with a peaceful afternoon, try The Well Coffeehouse or Just Love Coffee—both are committed to using their profits towards promoting social justice locally and globally, and they each have inviting seating to go along with their excellently-roasted beverages. All you need to bring is a great book 🙂

Subculture

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I love good food. Really good food. Not fancy or pricey food even, just layers of flavors that have been skillfully and intentionally prepped by a chef who delights in creating and offering really good food. In my travels to different continents and countries, I’ve developed an appreciation for many ethnic dishes; I’ve discovered that recipes passed down over generations and perfected over centuries in cultures with a history much older than our own tend to have depths of flavor that traditional American cuisine can sometimes be lacking (although I’ll forever love a good Southern meat & three or a juicy burger!).

I also prefer the smaller, hole-in-the-wall, potentially-undiscovered, non-chain restaurants. While Applebee’s and Logan’s have their place in feeding the hungry masses (and although I confess I may be idealizing the whole scenario :), I’ve typically experienced that the smaller the restaurant, the more each bite reflects that pride was taken in the meal preparation—that there is a culinary artist in the kitchen who genuinely enjoys perfecting his or her craft and who cares about having satisfied customers (who become regulars!).

So, those being my personal preferences in guiding my restaurant selections in the ever-growing world of Nashville eating options, I highly recommend trying Subculture. A relatively new, barely visible from the street eatery tucked in a strip mall between Babies-R-Us and Kroger at the intersection of Nolensville and Old Hickory, it is advertised as Latin American street food and urban cuisine. From their Churrasco sandwich with succulently-marinated, locally-sourced beef, to a Nashville Scene Hot Chicken Biscuit winner, to the tastiest tacos I’ve ever had (Tuesday is taco night and 2 for 1 local draft beers), to crepes with bourbon maple syrup, every menu provision is meticulously crafted for your eating enjoyment. I make no claims to be a food critic but can guarantee that if you venture out for a new experience, you won’t leave disappointed.

*Subculture now also has a food truck inside Mill Creek Brewery in Nolensville, Tennessee.

Mule Days

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I suppose every town has its claim to fame—some more widely recognized than others. Columbia (Nashville’s southerly neighbor by about 45 minutes) is proud to be known as the Mule Capital of the World. Although I was born in Nashville and spent my earliest years here, my parents moved us to Columbia when I was in elementary school to be closer to my grandmother. So, over the course of my childhood, I learned to proudly claim my Muletown heritage.

Every year, on a Saturday early in April, we participated in Mule Day in some form or fashion (several years back it changed from Mule Day to Mule Days and became a full weekend of mule-related events). People lined our small town’s streets to see mule-drawn wagons, decorated floats, pageant winners waving from convertibles, and many a horseback rider. One year I rode the Tennessee Walker I had taken riding lessons on, hoping the whole time that she would remain as calm amidst the sea of animals and crowds of people as she typically did in the open fields of the farm where I normally rode her. When I was in 3rd grade, my school entered a “Wish Upon a Star” float with each child dressing up as what they wanted to be when they grew up—decked out in a white nurse’s uniform and cap, I knew early on exactly what I wanted to be. 🙂

I’ve lived back in Nashville now for 20 years; a few years ago, I returned with my niece and nephew to see the parade, enjoying seeing their enjoyment of it. But this year I decided to go back to once again experience all things centered around mules. So, on a blue sky, sunny day, I went with a friend yesterday to Maury County Park, the hub for campers and horse trailers, and the headquarters for the mule races, pulling competitions, and riding shows, for live music, arts & crafts sales and for all types of food trucks and vendors offering a variety of fried and tasty fair foods.

Mule Day began in Columbia back in 1840 as a “Breeder’s Day” for mule breeders who met there to trade. It now draws in over 100,000 visitors from all across the country to enjoy the festivities. I’ll admit it was more a sense of nostalgia than a keen interest in the crossbreed of horse and donkey that made me want to go; but I’m learning that home always has a way of drawing you back and that time tends to grow an ever deepening appreciation for the uniqueness of the town that grew you.

Nashville Breweries

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For someone who didn’t even drink until I was in my 30’s, friends from my younger years might still be surprised to find me writing about a love for craft beer. 🙂 And although I have a somewhat particular palate for particular types of brews, I nonetheless have developed an appreciation for the cold beverages that are “Created. Not made.”, to borrow The Black Abbey Brewing Company’s motto.

While farmers’ markets, CSAs and some area restaurants offer options to eat local, a growing number of Nashville breweries provide multiple options to drink local. According to ediblenashville.com * (an excellent resource for all things food and drink in Music City!), there were 50 breweries in the U.S. in 1984, and there were 4,000 as of 2016, with new ones opening daily. And Nashville has contributed more than 20 of its own outstanding ones to the statistical increase.

For those who enjoy the world of ales, lagers, pilsners and such, a tour of the Yazoo Brewery is a must. It’s a popular place with a packed taproom, so it’s best to buy the $8 tickets online in advance. The tours are informative, fun, and generous with samples. Most of the taprooms provide a variety of board games, darts, ping-pong, corn hole, etc., so you can linger and leisurely enjoy time with friends. Some also sell food (Tennessee Brew Works has a great Five Beer Burger, and East Nashville Brew Works and Tailgate both sell exceptional pizzas), while others let you brown bag it and bring in your food of choice. Black Abbey also has food trucks parked out front on Friday nights so you can buy dinner on the way in (The Brothers Burger food truck that rotates there some weeks is hands down the best burger I’ve had in Nashville!)

And for those who love music with their brews, Tennessee Brew Works is an official Nashville Live Music Venue, and has live music most nights, including a no-cover charge Bluegrass jam session on Wednesday nights; and Little Harpeth has a string band performing every Friday night. My favorite brewery musical experience so far (and personal recommendation!) was the Beer and Hymn sing at Black Abbey. Their small taproom was filled to capacity with Christmas carolers singing in unison, delightfully lending itself to an Irish pub feel. (beerhymns.com)

So here’s to discovering the beer side of our city, and to drinking locally (and responsibly :-))

*Search “Beer City” for a guide to Nashville breweries

 

The Station Inn

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The Station Inn—its humble, unassuming appearance in the midst of Nashville’s newer, more modern surrounding structures that make up The Gulch, has often reminded me of one of my favorite stories as a child, The Little House. The award winning children’s book tells of a cozy little home that is almost lost as a city is built up around it; but in spite of the grandeur of the expanding skyline, it is the unpretentious little building that remains the central character and star of the show.

While many venues in Nashville host a variety of music genres, The Station Inn is known by all as the heart and home of Bluegrass. Many a banjo and mandolin have been expertly played on that small stage since 1978 (although it originally opened in 1974, it moved to its current location four years later). The interior could be labeled lackluster by some, but to me, the windowless, knotty pine walls covered up almost entirely by concert posters, the soft glow of the white lights hung on the ceiling, and the down home feel of a dive bar provide a welcoming “y’all come” as soon as you walk in. The performers always seem to be perfectly in their element—in their happy place. Their love for sharing their gift is evident in their laid back interaction with the audience throughout the evening and in their exquisite skill of strumming a Bluegrass rhythm.

It’s best to arrive early to the show—the coziness of the room also means limited seating options. Be prepared with cash for the entrance fee (other than a free Bluegrass jam on Sunday nights, tickets typically range between $12-$20; credit cards are accepted at the bar for beer, drinks or food). The small, ballpark-type menu of nachos, pizza and hotdogs won’t be what draws you back there, but after experiencing the overall joy of this Nashville gem, I’d be highly surprised if you didn’t find yourself eager to go back.

Elliston Place Soda Shop

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You have to go. Line up a babysitter, or take the kiddos. Plan a date, or meet up with a friend. In a city where new restaurants open continuously, there is a small, greasy spoon diner that has stood the test of time for over 75 years. Elliston Place Soda Shop boldly claims to have the best burger in town, and considering myself a connoisseur of good cheeseburgers, they were an easy selection for a recent birthday dinner with a dear friend.

The historic character of the diner has been well preserved, and gives a welcoming invitation to all hungry customers to enjoy their Southern cuisine with a sense of nostalgia for the olden days. Mini jukeboxes at every booth, red vinyl-topped bar stools, and old-timey milkshake makers all lend to creating a delightful ambiance of yesteryear. The Soda Shop announced its closing back in 2011, due to rising rent prices, but the local public poured out their support, causing the landlord to renegotiate the lease which kept the doors of this Nashville landmark open.

No other restaurant in Nashville has been open longer in its original location. This charming eatery is on the national register of historic places and was mentioned in the book 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. There is a full breakfast and soda fountain menu, and different meat and three options are offered Monday through Friday. But the burgers are a menu staple, and every delicious bite is worth every delicious calorie.